Capital: Nuuk … 56,653 People … 2.166 million km²
The Country
Greenland is known for its stunning natural beauty; towering glaciers, rugged mountains, crystal-clear fjords, and a unique wildlife are all common sights to behold. With a rich cultural history and an emerging tourism industry, Greenland offers visitors the chance to experience a truly diverse and authentic destination. Although not the easiest to get to, this remote nation offers something for everyone.
Fun Facts
Greenland is the largest island in the world, but the least densely populated country.
There are no roads or railway systems that connect towns in Greenland.
Once a Danish colony, Greenland gained autonomy in 1979
My Experience
After months of anticipation, and days of sailing through the North Atlantic, our ship was nearing land. Through the thick fog, we began to see rock formations on either side of us, and within a few minutes, we entered Prins Christian Sund.
Prins Christian Sund is a fjord located on the eastern coast of the country. Named after Prince Christian of Denmark, who later became King Christian X in 1912, this 100km long waterway was our first introduction to Greenland.
As the granite cliffs began to rise around us, I noticed a small creature swimming alongside us. Likely a white-beaked dolphin or minke whale, it slinked back into the water after only a few moments. Prins Christian Sund seemed like a paradise for wildlife- the calm, quiet waters were protected by the towering rock formations. We saw hundreds of birds flying overhead, perched on the rocks, and some even perched on small icebergs.
As we continued through the fjord, not only did the waterway become larger, the icebergs became larger as well. At one point we actually ended up hitting one, resulting in me losing my footing. The sharp crunch of ice hitting the bow of the ship was disconcerting, but luckily it was a smaller iceberg so Kelsey and I didn’t have to perform a rendition of Titanic.
The fog began to lift, and small inlets within the fjord became visible. Massive walls of blue glaciers poked out from every corner. The ice had splintered off of some glaciers, filling the water with shards of ice. Within one small area in the fjord, our ship was able to rotate 360° to provide incredible angles for photography. Kelsey and I rushed to the helicopter deck to get a better look, and we were hit with the cool air of glacier ice only a few hundred feet away from us. Layers were not needed, we were too excited to be this close to something so few have seen.
The silence in Prins Christian Sund was truly remarkable - only the occasional sound of ice fragments scraping up against the ship cut through the stillness. After some time, we heard the distant sound of waterfalls, and suddenly we were given the view of a lifetime. Glaciers embedded high atop the fjord were pouring out massive amounts of water, creating long chains of waterfalls.
Within a few hours, we had reached the end of Prins Christian Sund. The awe-inspiring glaciers, waterfalls and granite ridges quickly faded behind us, and fog once again limited our view. We took a sharp left turn to begin heading south, near the village of Aappilattoq, before reaching the coastal waters of Greenland and continuing our way to the town of Qaqortoq.
Day 2
The next morning, bright and early, we docked in the town of Qaqortoq, the most populous town in southern Greenland boasting a population of 3,050. Although this was August, the bay was filled with icebergs, so it took a bit longer than normal to get onshore. Stepping on land, however, was a short-lived endeavour. Kelsey and I immediately hopped on a small fishing vessel destined for Hvalsø Church - the best-preserved Norse ruins in Greenland.
We arrived at a small dock in the middle of a valley surrounded by rolling fields and rounded peaks. Without realizing it, the boat we arrived on quickly turned around, the Greenlandic guide yelled “be back in an hour or two!” and he powered through the calm inlet.
Stepping onshore, one thing was immediately clear: how green Greenland was! We were dropped off on a hillside surrounded by lush grass, wildflowers, and other small shrubs. Granted, we were in the far south of Greenland, during an unseasonably hot summer, but if you want to impress someone by telling them that Greenland is icy and Iceland is green, maybe think of something else. I say this because after arriving home 5 people in my first week back told me that Greenland wasn’t green. They had to see pictures to believe me it was, in fact, quite green.
Wandering up the hill, we spotted Hvalsø Church. Built sometime around 1300AD, these ruins hold a high amount of cultural significance. The church is famously known as the location where the last written record of the Greenlandic Norse was recorded- a wedding in September 1408. Today, it is now the location of a sheep farm.
Built from granite fieldstones, we crouched through the tight archways to experience the inside. The colourful stones, made even more vibrant by a thin layer of orange moss, enclosed a small patch of lush grass where people stood 700 years prior to our arrival. We stood in the ruins for quite some time as the warm sun illuminated the decaying stones.
Although known for the church ruins, Hvalsø was a Norse estate farm. It was used as a hub for commerce and a launching point for expeditions to hunt narwhals, polar bears, and other animals inhabiting Greenland. We wandered through the field finding ruins of smaller houses, graves, animal pens, and more. We trudged through the thick weeds, eventually climbing a steep hill for a better look at the entire area. Calm water, sun-kissed fields, and low-hanging clouds were all sights to behold.
Our charter vessel arrived shortly before noon, and we got a lift back to Qaqortoq. From Viking ruins to modern infrastructure, we were excited to see what Greenlanders do for fun. At the main dock, a large sign was proudly displayed welcoming visitors to Qaqortoq, and locals were selling a variety of jewellery, food items, and so much more. On each of the stalls, handprinted signs provided Greenlandic vocabulary, teaching visitors how to say hello, thank you, and much more.
We walked down Torevej street in the heart of Qaqortoq before finding a small local pub, Cafe Injugssuk. What better way to start the day than with a pint of Qajaq beer? Paired with a Greenlandic sheep burger, you can’t go wrong.
One of the main points of inspiration I had to visit Greenland was my favourite movie: The Secret Life of Walter Mitty. The protagonist embarks on an adventure to Greenland and Iceland in search of a missing negative from a famous photographer. Along the way, he must confront his fears and insecurities and learn to embrace the present moment, rather than living in a world of daydreams. One of the crucial scenes in the film involves Walter sitting in a bar in Greenland. Although his adventures were a bit grander, my time in Cafe Injugssuk was everything I imagined it would be.
We took this opportunity to plan our route for the rest of the day and set off once again.
Heading East, we climbed the hill on Vatikanbakken to get a better look at the brightly coloured homes that filled the town. Nearly every house in the town was painted a vibrant shade of red, blue, green or yellow. In colonial times, houses were coloured specifically to identify the purpose of a building. Red houses would signify churches and schools, while yellow houses would signify hospitals and the homes of doctors, for example. That way, if a traveller became ill, they would immediately know where to go. Today, houses are painted in any colour, but bright tones have remained a classic tradition.
Throughout Qaqortoq, traditional sculptures and carvings decorate exposed cliffsides and boulders nearly everywhere you soon. As part of the Stone & Man Project, artist Aka Høegh worked with 18 nordic artists starting in 1990 to make a permanent open-air exhibit. Today, re-creations of ancient tribal designs of whales, fish, faces, and much more add a cultural flair to this unique town.
We spent the remainder of the day stopping by local shops and enjoying what Greenland had to offer. As we returned to our ship, a group of kids proceeded to jump off the dock into the water beside our boat- bravely enduring the near-freezing water. I wasn’t about to join them, especially since there was a small iceberg within eyesight, but their feat was truly impressive.
Learning more about Greenland from the people that live there, enjoying local food and drink, and exploring ancient ruins and unpronounceable streets (such as Tassuunnaqquunnerit Tamaasa) was an eye-opening experience. Although unfortunately a short-lived trip, I was able to cross this remote island nation off my list, officially visiting every country located north of the Arctic Circle.
More Photos of Greenland